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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred names. However, tucked high among these food titans is a modest salonu found in a distant area of north London.

A Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m completely surprised,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their humble place securing such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.